Native American Jewelry
It’s hard to imagine Native American jewelry without thinking of turquoise. This greenish blue mineral has been a part of Native American life since humans first inhabited the region known as Mesoamerica – the southwestern part of the United States that includes Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and California and stretches southward into the central portion of Mexico once inhabited by the Mayan and Aztec cultures.
Although a mainstay in Native American jewelry, the word “turquoise” itself is of French origin. Stories differ but it is believed to be derived from the term “dark blue stone,” or pierre turquin or from Turquois, the French word for “Turkish.” The stone is not found in Turkey but was widely traded at Turkish bazaars and was used to decorate Turkish temples and homes.
With its brilliant colors, it is easy to see why turquoise was one of the first gems to be mined. Always found close to the surface, usually no deeper than 65 feet, in lands that are rugged and arid, the gem has been traditionally used in Native American jewelry as beadwork and polished, round nuggets with one flat side, called cabochons. The Zuni used it to carve fetishes for protection against evil spirits.
Native American jewelry isn’t the only application Native Americans use with the stone. Small, precisely carved tiles of turquoise in varying colors are beautiful when included in mosaic works. Tiles of many colors have been found in the Chaco Canyon area of the American Southwest. The Anasazi, ancestors of today’s Pueblo peoples, are thought to have enjoyed a prosperous trade in the stone.
Using turquoise to embellish Native American jewelry may have once been a part of early medicine instead of jewelry making. It was once believed the stone would change color to reflect the physical health of the wearer. The stone is the traditional birthstone for the month of December.
The pairing of turquoise and silver in making Native American jewelry became a common practice beginning in the 1880s, most likely a result of European influence.
Native American jewelry featuring turquoise should be handled with care. It should never be exposed to solvents such as hair spray, perfume, and cosmetics and prolonged exposure to sunlight will dull the colors. It is only slightly harder than glass used for windows so scratching it is a problem best avoided by storing it in a box or bag separate from other jewelry.
Please send any comments directly to the author, Joseph Paige.

